I went to Dollywood expecting cheesy photo ops with life-size cutouts of the namesake legend; a constant soundtrack of her greatest hits; and performers wearing big, blonde wigs. My other theme park experiences involved costumed characters offering hugs and waving from floats, so I figured her likeness would be everywhere.
My 8-year-old son, Theo, and I were first-timers. Weeks before our trip, we studied the map to determine which attractions we were too short (i.e. scared) to ride and watched YouTube videos about the legendary Cinnamon Bread from the Grist Mill. When we finally walked through the gates, I felt 8 years old too.
Since opening in 1986, Dollywood has evolved with the times as much as the country star herself. What started as a small-scale park with a restaurant, a handful of rides, and a replica of her Tennessee Mountain Home, is now the state’s most-visited attraction. (And the 2024 winner of our South’s Best Awards for the best attraction in Tennessee.) This spring, look for The Dolly Parton Experience, a revamped part of the park that will include Storyteller, an interactive museum; Behind the Seams, featuring her wardrobe; DreamSong Theater; and a retired tour bus.
Today, Dollywood is divided into 11 themed sections, with coasters being the obvious draw. The newest one, Big Bear Mountain, has the longest track yet and is designed so shorter members of the family can also participate. It was still thrilling. High on adrenaline, Theo screamed, “This is the most fun ever!” as we staggered off. Even though a park attendant had surely heard that phrase countless times that day, she laughed and said, “So glad you had fun, buddy!”
Theo and I wandered around, a little bit dazed. Roller coasters looped and twisted above. Exhilarated screams and the scent of cinnamon filled the air. The bluish gray foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains seemed to wrap us and all of Pigeon Forge in a hug. Most of our fellow parkgoers, from seniors on scooters to packs of teenagers, sported a Dolly Parton T-shirt of some kind. (My favorite read, “If I die, tell Dolly I love her.”)
We were met with smiles and hellos everywhere we went. Not just from employees but from folks in line chatting about which ride is the craziest or how long they waited for cinnamon bread. Throughout the day, Theo and I ran into a few of the same people, and we waved to each other like old friends. Theme parks tend to lure visitors from all over the world, but the warmth we felt was distinctly Southern.
This was also evident in the many features that hark back to a bygone era. At the Back Porch Theater, a crowd nodded along to live bluegrass, while others took in the show from a distance in rocking chairs. The Dollywood Express steam engine train chugged by, releasing its earsplitting whistle. Theo and I ducked into a little white chapel (where services are held on Sundays) to find a few people sitting silently in the glow of artificial candles, enjoying a moment of peace amid the happy chaos.
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